Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Wooden clothes feature in Icelandic fashion designer Sruli Recht's Autumn Winter 2013 menswear collection.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Layers of walnut wood were divided into triangles then mounted on a textile base to create a pliable material that forms the geometric shapes of the garments.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Most of the items in Sruli Recht's collection are constructed from a single pattern and piece of material, with sweaters woven from complete unravelled skeins of wool and cotton blend.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

The charred colour scheme of black and grey is broken only by a yellow ochre suit and a matching pair of suede shoes that have the patterns of the wooden items repeated on their soles.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Eiderdown collected from abandoned nests on the beaches in the Westfjörds of Iceland, metal mesh and reindeer skin are all included in the material palette.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Recht also created a ring from skin surgically removed from his own belly for the collection - see it here.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Other items of jewellery in the collection combine black and white acrylic resin with fool's gold and peacock ore specimens, fused in a process akin to fossilisation and hand sculpted by jewellery artist Jade Mellor.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

The wooden textiles were created with German designer Elisa Strozyk, whose wooden carpet project we featured a while ago.

Small oxidised metal pins for fastening collars and chunky wooden boots also feature in the collection, which was presented at the Carousel de Louvre during Paris Men's Fashion Week last week (above).

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Recht works from his Reykjavik studio to create garments and accessories from unconventional materials, and his previous collections have included stillborn lamb leather and silk extracted from a spider's gland implanted in a goat.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

We posted stories about a wooden t-shirt prototype and carnival costumes made from folded paper last year.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Photography is by Marinó Thorlacius.

See all our stories about fashion design by Sruli Recht »
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Read on for more information from Sruli Recht:


Story

This is the fifth complete menswear line from Sruli Recht. “This collection is completely burned.” - Sruli Recht, January, 2013. The collection in three words – facetted, charred, smoking.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

The Concentrated collection for Autumn and Winter 2013/14 consists of 28 total looks - from heavy coats, fur jackets, tailored suits, cardigans, to trousers, shorts and underwear, pea-coats, shirts, sweaters and jerseys, complimented by boots, loafers, trainers, bags, raincoats, gloves, cufflinks and fossilized resin jewellery - 60 styles, approximately 150 with material variations.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

All garments and product samples are produced in-house and in the EU, unless otherwise stated. The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, utilising an origami hybrid of tailoring, draping and digital modification.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

This season employs a global selection of waxed cottons, leathers, wool and felts, silks, and timber, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin. A permanent creasing system has been developed for the mechanised pleat structures of the garments. Our buttons this season are in the form of a facetted shield, made from oxidised metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Materials

Featured sourced materials: Japanese denim and heavy satin, goat skin, walnut wood, cashmere rib, metal mesh, Austrian felt, Scottish waxed cotton, viscose jersey, wool and modal jersey, silk and cupro shirting, shearling, pixelated rabbit fur, and Italian wool suiting.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Anthropodermic Leather

In a documented one-time surgery-performance, a plastic surgeon removed a 110mm x 10mm strip of skin from the abdomen of Sruli Recht. The subcutaneous tissue and epidermis was then scraped from the dermis, which is stripped of fat by hand and blade, before being salted, and tanned with an Alum solution. The resulting leather from the dermis was prepared for use in the ring, Forget Me Knot.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Wool Silk Skeins

Complete and unwound skeins made of 30% silk and 70% wool, made in Switzerland, hand applied in an incredibly intricate process on the stand.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Polygonal Wooden Material

To transform wood into a flexible wooden surface, by dark digital art, a cell-phone whispered soft binary code to a walnut tree seed for a year, then planted it in the ashes of a glacier.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Once grown, the wood is deconstructed into geometric pieces, and then attached to a textile base by hand, creating a material half wood, half textile - a flexible wooden surface, completely fragmentary.

The "Wooden Textiles" in this collection are produced with Elisa Strozyk, uniquely for our garments.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Fossilised Resin

Emulating nature's processes of fossilisation and weathering, our jewellery this season is made using resin and raw minerals. Combing black acrylic resin with pyrite specimens, and white resin with bornite specimens (peacock ore), each piece is individually hand sculpted by Jade Mellor.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Eiderdown

Hand collected Eiderdown from the abandoned nests on the beaches of Örlygshofn, in the Westfjörds of Iceland.
The down of birds is a layer of fine feathers found under the tougher exterior feathers.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Very young birds are clad only in down. The loose structure of down feathers traps air, which helps to insulate the bird against heat loss. The word down comes from the Old Norse word dūnn.

The down is cleaned in our studio for use in our show-piece Interdiktor.

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Forget Me Knot by Sruli Recht

Forget Me Knot by Sruli Recht

Icelandic fashion designer Sruli Recht had a slice of skin surgically removed from his own belly to make this ring.

After the operation, the 110 by 10 millimetre strip of skin was salted and tanned, then mounted on a 24 carat gold band to create the piece of jewellery, which can be purchased for €350,000.

Forget Me Knot by Sruli Recht

Sruli Recht created a short documentary with graphic scenes of the operation, performed by a plastic surgeon, which can be watched here if you have a strong stomach.

The anthropodermic leather ring forms part of Recht's Autumn Winter 2013 collection, to be presented in Paris tomorrow.

Recht creates garments and accessories from unconventional materials at his Reykjavik studio, and his previous collections have included stillborn lamb leather and silk extracted from a spider's gland implanted in a goat.

Other unusual jewellery we've written about include a collection made from the hair of a deceased loved one and pieces made of animal and fish remains.

See all our stories about jewellery design »
See all our stories about designs by Sruli Recht »

Credits

Editor: Stefanía Thors
Sound: Helgi Svavar Helgason
Camera 1: Rúnar Ingi
Camera 2: Þórsteinn Magnússon
Photo: Marino Thorlacius

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Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Icelandic fashion designer Sruli Recht has used translucent lambskin, stripy skunk fur, an ancient meteorite and fabric that can withstand mortar attacks in his latest menswear collection (+ slideshow).

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

The spring/summer 2013 collection, called Circumsolar, was unveiled in Paris on the last day of June.

Translucent leather has been used to make a vest, shoes and passport holder.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Leather made from horses and ostriches has been used to make two large penis forms, called Shaft and Sheath.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Some of the linings and undergarments are made from a high-tech paraffin cooling knit, which rapidly cools the skin on contact.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Ballistic aramid, a material used in body armour to protect against bomb and knife attacks, has been used to make a brimless hat.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

The Epoch ring is made from the Muonionalusta meteorite, which fell into the Arctic Circle about one million years ago. The striped marks on the ring are a result of the shock impact with earth.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

A silk and cashmere scarf has been digitally printed with an image of the sun’s solar wind by artist B. Börkur Éiriksson and produced by couture fabric house Ratti.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Skunk fur has been used to make a bomber jacket with a white stripe running down the arms.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Another bomber jacket is made from dark green lamb’s leather, which has been fused with aluminium in the top layers of the epidermis.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

The majority of the clothes are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

See all our stories about Sruli Recht »
See all our stories about fashion »

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Photographs are by Marinó Thorlacius.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Here’s some more information from the designer:


“This collection is drawn by the dust of a meteor’s tail in orbital decay, illuminated by our sun.” – Sruli Recht, June, 2012.

The collection in three words – Solar, Polarising, Circular.

The Circumsolar collection for Spring and 2013 consists of 24 total looks – from light coats, tailored jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings, complemented by hats, boots, shoes, bags, gloves, sunglasses and jewellery – 55 styles, approximately 105 items with material variations.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, where the width of the material allows. In the case of the shirts, the cuff and placket come from the same piece of fabric as the sleeve, which is also part of the body and collar. Our shoes are hand-lasted in-house and completely hand-sewn.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

This season employs a global selection of waxed cottons, leathers and silks, and timber, complemented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin. Our buttons this season, an Obol, are made from oxidized metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.

Everything in the collection is made in Iceland.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

MATERIALS

Featured sourced materials: meteorite, translucent leather, black gold, ballistic aramid, high-tech paraffin cooling linings, skunk fur, aluminium-infused lamb skin and bamboo suiting.

Transparent Leather. Made from the purest lambs – for if you remove the sole of an animal before its passing, the skin becomes transparent.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Muonionalusta Meteorite. Considered the oldest meteorite to have impacted the earth, the Muonionalusta Meteorite has passed through four Ice-ages, having fallen into the Arctic Circle about 1 million years ago.

Solar Burned Black Gold. For if you take the gold from the teeth of the passed during the daylight hours, it will become black when reworked.

High-Tech Paraffin Cooling Knit. Used in military and medical applications, this material rapidly cools the skin on contact. This season we have used it for both linings and undergarments.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Ballistic Aramid. Known for its employment in military ballistic protection, aramid fibres are used in layers to stop mortar and knife attacks.

Skunk. Historically referred to as Alaskan Sable, the skunk’s fur is a shimmering black with a white V running from head to tail. This fur consists of two layers, a soft inner fur (25-40mm long), and longer guard hairs (35-80mm long) which are of a coarser texture than the under fur.

Lamb-coated Aluminium. Before departing, the lamb is placed partly submerged in a tank, where through scientific application the aluminium, like adamantium, is fused between the first few layers of the epidermis.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Bamboo Suiting. Traditionally Bamboo was used to make hats and shoes in Japan and China. Moso bamboo has many advantages as a raw material for textiles over materials such as cotton. The plants can reach up to 35 metres tall and are the fastest growing woody plants on earth. The high growth rate of bamboo and the fact that it can grow in such diverse climates makes the bamboo plant a sustainable and versatile resource.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

GARMENTS

Feature Garments: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Spring and Summer 2013, Circumsolar.
*Some items made to order only

Show Piece One – Carapace*

SR549 – Translucent Leather Vest – Made from the purest lambs – for if you remove the sole of an animal before its passing, the skin becomes transparent.

SR550 – Translucent Five-Dimensional Lamb Leather Parchment Shoes
To be placed on at birth and again at death, for in dimension 5, they are the parenthesis of this twisted mass, I.

Show Piece Three – Epoch*

SR540b – Large Acid-Etched Ring from the Muonionalusta Meteorite.
By the hands of one blacksmith, acid, and the coincidence of gravity’s pull on a passing octahedrite, comes the ring EPOCH, sheared and formed from the Muonionalusta Meteorite. Considered the oldest meteorite to have impacted the earth, the Muonionalusta Meteorite has passed through four Ice-ages, having fallen into the Arctic Circle about one million years ago. The linear striations are naturally occurring as a result of the heavy shock impact with the planet.

Show Piece Four* – Supermassive

SR527a – Skunk Fur High Collar Bomber

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Feature Piece One – In Solar Wind

SR534 – Digital-Print Silk and Cashmere Scarf.
2.5m long Skarf [70% WS 30% SE], with digital print of our Sun’s solar wind, by artist B. Börkur Éiriksson, produced by couture fabric house Ratti.

Feature Piece Two – From Kinetic Energy

SR523 – Hand Knitted Cowl Sweater [100% Organic CO].

Feature Piece Three – Supermassive

SR527c – Dark Green High Collar Bomber from Aluminium-infused Lambskin.

Feature Piece Four – May Your Duty Dance With Death

SR520c – Ballistic-Proof Brimless Hat [100% WV 100% Kevlar].

Feature Non-Product: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Spring and Summer 2013, Circumsolar.
*some items made to order only

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

Feature Product One – Shaft*

SR528a – Blood-Red Layered Penis Form, Icelandic Horse Leather

Feature Product Two – Sheath*

SR503a – Black Leather Ribbed Prophylactic, Ostrich Leather

Feature Product Three – White Albedo*

SR507 – Drift-White Rimless Cherry Wood Frames – with clear or tinted lenses.

Feature Product Four – The Great Transition*

SR531a – Single piece translucent leather passport holder, with sections for travel documents, 4 sim cards, pen and paper currency.

Feature Product Four – From Decaying Orbit

SR542b – Twisted bracelet of blackened gold, shaped to the path the earth takes around our sun, with one polished edge.

Circumsolar by Sruli Recht

June 30, 2012, 5 30 pm. This season brought our first officially scheduled Paris runway presentation and performance. Featuring the choreography and performance of artist Tony Orrico. Original score from acclaimed composer Nico Muhly. Presented as runway and performance within the epic spaces of Palais Brongniart, Paris.

The Sruli Recht studio is a cross-discipline practice caught somewhere between product design, tailoring and shoe making. Based in Reykjavík, the studio rose to notoriety as it began in 2008 to produce one “non-product” every month from umbrellas to bulletproof scarves, tables, to belts and boots, and incorporating such materials as concrete, diamonds, skin and wool. The studio produces two seasonal menswear lines per year.

Movie credits:

SRULI RECHT S/S 2013

Circumsolar
and fragments of dying light
June 30, 2012
Featuring the choreography and performance of artist Tony Orrico.
Original score from acclaimed composer Nico Muhly.
Presented as runway and performance within the epic spaces of Palais Brongniart, Paris.

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Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

The latest menswear collection by fashion designer Sruli Recht of Iceland features leather made from dolphin skin, fabric woven from horse hair and silk extracted from a spider’s gland implanted in a goat.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Most of the garments are made from one pattern piece and cut from a single piece of fabric.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Accessories include glass slippers, a tinted plastic visor and a white saddle, plus a sniper rifle and knife carved in maple, sun-bleached and rubbed with horse hide.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Boots are made of the calloused skin over the spines of horses.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Called Field Dressing, the collection was unveiled in Paris last week.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Previous collections by Recht include coats made of blackbirds and stillborn lambs, concrete accessories and parchment gas masks. See all our stories about his work here.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Here’s some information and a poem by Sruli Recht:


FIELD DRESSING SRULI RECHT A/W 2012 Where the darkness divides

STORY – This is the third complete menswear line from Sruli Recht. “This collection was lost out on the hunt, chasing the goal to no end.” The collection in three words – tailored, pulsing, visceral.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

MATERIALS

This season employs a global selection of wool, waxed cottons, leathers and silks, glass, timber and steel, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

All the buttons are made from metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio, and blackened.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Feature materials designed or made by the studio this season:

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Horsetail-hair Satin

Ásthildur Magnúsdóttir, a woman of iron will and a brain in each finger, wove 3cm a day in the dead darkness of an epic Icelandic winter. Made from the waste products of the horse farms and slaughterhouses, Ásthildur developed for us a hand-loomed satin from single strands of horsetail hairs

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Cetacea Leather

And in those nets and on those beaches, leaving the water, the cold air it breaches.

Made by the man in the north, from bodies washed ashore, the Atlantic White-Sided Dolphin skin is nearly un-tannable, as the skin has structure more like an eye.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Spider-Silk Knit

We held down a spider, strapped its legs to a board, and reeled out its silk, for our silk spun hoard.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Our knit originates from the silk gland of a spider, carefully placed in the milk duct of a goat. The single filament is reeled out of the goat millimetres at a time to produce the most difficult to obtain fibre in the world. Having secured 2 skeins of the silk, each many thousands of metres long, we spent 4 days unravelling it to prepare for knitting.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

A further week was spent gently coaxing two filaments into the knotted web of these garments… And then another week convincing it to become the emperor’s new clothing. Weight for weight, silk is stronger than steel and tougher than Kevlar.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Icelandic Wool

With a local knitting house, we designed two new knits for this season:

A Felt – Felted 100% Icelandic wool from a structured waffle knit base.

And a Knit – Knitted and brushed 50% Icelandic wool and 50% cotton knit in a tight tuck stitch.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

The wool of The Icelandic sheep – Íslenska sauðkindin [a patched history]

Pure descendants of the same stock as the Norwegian Spelsau, brought to Iceland by the Vikings prior to 900 Anno Domine, Icelandic sheep have been bred unmixed for one thousand, one hundred years in a bitter, harsh environment. The baron moss-fields of Iceland yield rare game and consequently they are efficient herbivores.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Icelandic skins come in many colours and generally are not dyed. The hide is quite soft and are on average 6 square feet (0.56 m2) to 8 square feet (0.74 m2) in size. Often left unshorn for the winter, the wool length can be up to 8 inches (200 mm) in length.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Icelandic fleece is dual-coated, and this wool is made up of two types of fibres: coarse and fine. The long outer coat is called Tog and the fine inner coat called Thel. Tog is generally classified as a medium wool around 27 micrometres in diameter. This wool is good for weaving and for use in other durable products and it is long, glossy, tough, and water resistant.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Thel, being the finer wool and classified as such, is generally around 20 micrometres in diameter. This finer wool is used for garments that touch the skin as it tends to be softer and more insulating, providing a high resistance to cold and possessing a unique texture and natural colours.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

GARMENTS

The Field Dressing collection for Autumn and Winter 2012/13 consists of 35 total looks – from tuxedo to tracksuit, coats, tailored jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings, complimented by boots, shoes, bags, raincoats, gloves and silver jewellery – 75 styles, approximately 180 with material variations.

 

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

All garments and product samples are produced in-house unless otherwise stated. Shoes and boots are made and lasted in Iceland.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, where the width of the material allows. I.e. In the case of the shirts, the cuff and placket come from the same piece of fabric as the sleeve, which is also part of the body and collar.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Everything in the collection is made in Iceland.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Feature Pieces: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Autumn And Winter, 2012/13, Field Dressing.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

all items made to order only

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

SR420 – By Two Hairs – 308 Callibre Heavy-barrel sniper-rifle, from hand cut maple, sun-bleached, rubbed down with black horse hide and stripped of colour. Stock made by master Icelandic wood carver Muggi.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

SR456 – Þungur Hnífur / Heavy Knife – A heavy black-blade hunting knife, with hand carved maple handle, sun-bleached, rubbed down with black horse hide and stripped of colour: For field dressing. Handle and sheath made by master Icelandic wood carver Muggi.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

SR463 – Carradina – Atlantic white-sided dolphin-skin auto-erotic asphyxia belt, mounted to reindeer skin and provided with a door or handle hook.

oh, auto erotica who is this warrior?

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

SR414 – Saddled – White hand-stretched saddle, in modern pose, for the Icelandic and international Horse. Made with Sigurður Björnsson, master Icelandic saddler.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

SR417 – Lens – A tinted sun visor, of vacuum formed Poly(methyl methacrylate) [PMMA] – fixed to the individuals shape.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

SR471 – Glass slipper – Glass blown slippers, made with the breath of Sigrún Ólöf Einarsdóttir and mounted to heat formed PMMA for the clear path ahead.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

I could be that man

one made of glass

just like the other

my life is sparse

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

and I could be that man

that man of class

transparent and still

an ideal to surpass

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

 

fragile and hard,

shining, miscast

ahead of some others,

but inside, still last

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Sruli would like to deeply thank:

The team for their tireless, phenomenal drive and the uncountable amount of hours they put in whilst staring down this beast of burden, through injury, nuclear winter and broken bodies. A designer has nothing but ideas without a team to bring them into being. Megan Herbert, pretty much the greatest person in the world. From styling the collection, to producing our show, and holding us all together – this collection would not be, if not for her. Marinó Thorlacius – who was responsible for each and every image of this and all our collections, in his absent and focused ways. Marinó had made our brand identity what it is today. Emil Þór Guðmundsson is the best non-model model we have ever worked with – he brings our clothing to life. and Jarred Eberhart – who takes 6 months of overtime work, by 20 odd people, and puts it together into a look-book in one single day.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Photographer – Marinó Thorlacius

Models – Emil Þór Guðmundsson, Driton Kaleviqi Stylist – Megan Herbert

Lookbook Layout – wearenotyou

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

The Sruli Recht studio is a cross-discipline practice caught somewhere between product design, tailoring and shoe making. Based in Reykjavík, the studio rose to notoriety as it began in 2008 to produce one “non-product” every month from umbrellas to bulletproof scarves, tables, to belts and boots, and incorporating such materials as concrete, diamonds, skin and wool. The studio produces two seasonal menswear lines per year.

Concrete Buckle by Sruli Recht

More Icelandic fashion design: this time a series of concrete belt buckles by Sruli Recht of Reykjavík. (more…)

Masked – In Flight by Sruli Recht

To coincide with Icelandic design festival DesignMarch, which began in Reykjavik yesterday, here are some parchment gas masks by Reykjavik designer Sruli Recht. (more…)

R¿ng by Sruli Recht

Reykjavik designer Sruli Recht has designed a ring where three interchangeable rough diamonds can be screwed into it. (more…)